Thai Street-Food Heaven in London
Owner of London restaurant The Begging Bowl, New Zealand chef Jane Alty has it “sussed” according to Independent reviewer Lisa Markwell.
“We’ve got in just under the wire, as lunch is served till 2.30pm and no matter how many strollers-by stop and ask for a table, they stick to it. That shows confidence radiating from the tiny kitchen at the back of the light, airy room.
“Soon after that, the unmistakable sound of woks in action kicks in: we’ve ordered five dishes from the 12-item menu.
“First up, a green curry with poached chicken, baby corn, pea aubergines and Thai basil – what elevates it stratospherically from the norm [is] the beautifully cooked chicken.
“We’ve ordered pork shin, slow-braised in cassia bark, dark soy, star anise, with pickled mustard greens and a duck egg. Oh good grief, it’s great. It’s earthy and stringy and pungent, all good things in a dish such as this.
“Certainly I’d come begging for more (groan).”
Alty has lived in London for 16 years. She has worked at Bibendum, Galvin at Windows, Racine and the Michelin-starred Nahm. She opened The Begging Bowl in 2012.
Original article by Lisa Markwell, The Independent, June 22, 2014.