Great Barrier secrets

Escaping the New Zealand mainland, The Sydney Morning Herald’s Rob McFarland takes a four-hour boat trip to Great Barrier Island and “a ruggedly beautiful wilderness”. “The Barrier, as it’s referred to by the locals, has two main centres — Tryphena and Claris — and in each you’ll find a smattering of accommodation, cafes, restaurants and stores. What you won’t find are banks, office buildings, shopping malls and mobile phone coverage. Of course, for the island’s 75 permanent residents, this is its appeal. To get an idea of what life must have been like for the early pioneers, it’s worth dropping into the small but charming Milk, Honey and Grain Museum, which is ‘Open if the janitor is in residence’.”